Monday, April 30, 2018





Your players likely enjoy playing games other than Dungeons and Dragons, and their characters probably like games as well, games are universal.


So there really should be more gambling and game playing in D&D. There are some modules with gambling rules in them (The Secret of Bone Hill comes to mind), and the first edition Dungeon Master’s Guide even has games listed at the end.


So I’ve done two things, I’ve brewed up a few games for you to use in your game, and I have some suggestions on how to incorporate existing games into your D+D.


1. Play the Game

First off, don’t simulate games with rules (e.g. “your character has a 2 in 6 chance of beating Ogwallow at cards”), actually play the game.


2. Dice Games!

They already love rolling dice, and think of a group of mercenaries, or orcs for that matter, shooting dice. It’s practically a fantasy trope.

The names are meant to be D&D themed, but you can obviously change them to fit the flavor of your campaign.


Orc Bones
- every player antes
-every player takes a d6
- every player rolls
- goal is to singly or in teams take out others
- players announce who they are teaming with (proposed teammates must consent) and declare who they are attacking, or single players announce direct attacks on single victims
- when a declared attack on a victim or victims with less combined total than their aggressors occurs the lowest roller in the victim group drops out
- if a player from outside the aggressor and victim group wants they can declare to add their roll to the victim's after the aggressor's attack is announced
- then another outsider could add to either side, etc.
- once an attack is declared, however, it cannot be changed
- once the first round is done everyone still standing antes again and play continues.
- goal is to be last roller standing


Dragon’s Foot
Dragon’s foot is generally played with 10 or more players
- All players ante with a coin (cp,sp,gp)
- All players grab d4s
- Everyone rolls
- Low rolls lose (they have been stomped by the dragon's foot)
- Top roll wins
- If more than one person ties for top result then they all ante again to buy in to the next round or exit, all those who tied for top result but do not want to continue or those who lose the roll toss in a coin and exit the hand
- The survivors roll d6
- If more than one person ties for top result then they all ante again to buy in to the next round or exit, all those who tied for top result but do not want to continue or those who lose the roll toss in a coin and exit the hand
- The survivors roll d8
- repeat, then d10, then d12, then d20.
Etc.
- if tied at d20 then all players will roll off until there is one winner.
- If someone not going forward is willing to throw in the ante amount they can allow either player to re-roll a result (this can be done once for either side).
- The hand ends when there is only one player going to the next round, that player takes the pot.


3. Card Games

Bring a deck of regular cards to your D&D game. You can play an existing card game like poker, or add one of the games below to make it more exotic.

Storm Giant
- Every player gets 7 cards
- Every numbered card but face cards are added together
- If you get a jack you play it and get an extra card
- If you get a queen you can play it and steal a card from another player, at the cost of an ante
- If you get a king and you can play it and swap out one of your cards, at the cost of an ante
- If you have more than one face card you can switch all of them out, at the cost of an ante
- You can trade cards with another player after the face card switchouts, at the cost of an ante for both players
- once all swapping and trading is done, all bet on their hands having highest total score


Cavalier’s Courage
- all players ante with 1 coin (cp, sp or gp depending on the level of game).
- players are dealt 5 cards
- face cards are ranked from lowest to highest: jack, queen, king and ace (court assassin).
- doubles beat singles of the same card (two jacks beat one)
- triples beat singles and doubles of the same card (three jacks beat two)
- regular cards can be added together, and if their total adds up to exactly the value of a face card they may substitute, with the face card values being jack=11, queen=12, king=13 and ace=14 (ega 7 and a 4 equals a jack)
- each player gets one exchange of 2 cards for the cost of 1 coin
- when final cards are allocated each person decides if they want to be "in", if so they secretly put a coin in their hand, if not they don't
- on the count of three everyone reveals what is in their hands
- if no players are in each must match what is in the pot and they start a new hand with new ante, etc
- if more than 1 player is in the winner takes the pot
- player with the most face cards wins (remembering that two non-face cards may “add up” to a face card and substitute for one), if two players have the same number of face cards the player with the highest face cards wins
- if two players have the same number and type of face cards, they fold, match what is in the pot, and the play continues.
- if someone wins the pot with highest hand then everyone antes again and you keep playing

Fireball
- Everyone antes
- All cards in play
- Each player given five cards
- Numbered Cards valued at face number (e.g. a 7 is worth 7)
- Face cards valued 1 for jack, 2 for queen, 3 for king, 4 for ace.
- Each player adds top two numbered cards + highest face card together=score
- All players bet on basis of getting the highest score or fold
- Each player gets a discard and draw of two cards
- All players bet again or fold
- Each player gets a discard and draw of 1 card
- All players bet again or fold
- Cards are shown, high score (top two cards plus highest face card) wins
- The Jack of diamonds is a natural "fireball", if you get it you automatically take the hand


Dueling Warlocks
- You must have at 4 players for this game.
- Deal out all the cards face down to each player
- All players show their top card, highest card “wins” and collects all other cards and sets them in a separate pile.
- everyone who “lost” has to give one coin to the winner.
- next card is turned, highest card “wins” and collects all other cards and sets them in a separate pile.
- if the cards are equal, all of those tied leave that card up, “burn” another card face down, and flip the next card, those who did not have “equal” cards (e.g. the losers) have to give one coin to each winner as they exit the hand.
- if there is another tie you burn another card and flip again.
- Continue until you get a high card rather than a tie, and the high card takes all of the opponents cards (even the “burned” ones).
- The game continues until someone has all the cards.


Hydra
- All face cards are worth “10”
- the goal of the game is to total your cards to 15
- each player antes
- each player is dealt 7 cards
- the dealer burns one card to establish trump
- the first player must follow suit, if that card produces a 15 (say the first card was a 7 of spades, and the first player played a 8 of spades) then the player takes the two cards away for 1 point, everyone else drops a coin worth the ante in the pot, and the next player in sequence must play a card of whatever suit they like
- the next player must follow suit, if this produces a 15 they can take both cards and get a point, everyone else dropping in a coin, etc.
- if the cards total more than 15 another card must be played until the total is 30 or more, at which point the next player can play whatever suit they want and the totaling restarts.
- The player with the most points at the end gets the pot.
- variations on the game go for different totals other than 15 (e.g. the hydra in the standard game is 15 heads…)


4. Other Games

Don’t be afraid to import other games or game props whole cloth into your D&D.




I often bring a pack of Tarot cards to the game if the players are going to be in a marketplace or city. If they pass by the fortune teller I can actually lay out cards for them and improvise a reading, dropping in hints relevant to their quest or otherwise (a great distraction). It also gives you good role playing opportunities. Tarot cards pack small, so that’s a bonus, and you can get many variations on the standard Tarot, so go nuts.


And it’s also cool to just bring in a game like chess to D&D. Yes, a chess game can take a long time, so you can’t necessarily run a whole game. But you can use the game as part of the environment.

Another thing I’ve done is to bring new games that I find in real life into D&D. We live in a time of rich board gaming culture, so mine it. I’ve brought this to the D&D table before:







The premise of the game is that you have a “king” and a “throne”, taking the opponent’s king or throne (the king gets to move around) wins the game. Each player has a king and four playing pieces. Each player is dealt two “move” cards, in regular chess terms a player could be given a “knights” move and a “bishops” move, but in this game the moves are named after animals and are variations on chess moves. One card allows you to move one square to the front, right or left for example.

The neat thing is that any piece can move using the move indicated on one of the player’s two cards. However, when they make the move they take that card and put it in a discard pile, taking the card that was in the discard pile already. That way the cards are constantly cycling through both players, and part of the strategy is to know you are getting card “X” when you next lay down a card.

Games take about 10-15 minutes to play. Most games these days have a time indicator that’s relatively accurate on the outside of the box, so just pick games that are in a reasonable time window and you are good to go.


5.  General Rules for Cheating at Cards and Dice

Just for fun.

To represent the ability to distract, move quickly, cut cards, count cards, swap dice, etc., the following stats can be used (but NOT stacked). Note that a re-roll or re-draw doesn't mean that the character actually re-draws the card, but the player gets to, so the original result never happened (this emulates their skill at cards).

A. Charisma - players who get a bad roll or draw can re-roll (for dice) or re-draw (for cards), % chance of success is equal to their charisma score + level. If they fail the attempt to cheat is not caught.

B. Dexterity - players who roll unfavorably can re-roll (for dice) or re-draw (for cards), % chance of success is equal to their dexterity score + level. If they fail the attempt to cheat is caught.

C. Intelligence - players who roll unfavorably can re-roll (for dice) or re-draw (for cards), chance of success is equal to their intelligence + level. If they fail the attempt they will not be caught.

D. Pick Pockets - thieves who roll unfavorably can re-roll (for dice) or re-draw (for cards) if they make a successful PP roll. If they fail the attempt to cheat is caught.

The intelligence based chance to “cheat” involves guessing based on probabilities and past play experience with the game and the charisma based chance to cheat is based on successful bluffing, distraction, etc. Neither are based on physical tampering with the results, so you are generally not going to be caught if you fail.

Now go play a game.




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